Models This Applies To
Applies to: All-In Commercial Max models.
Technician Note: Use accompanying step-by-step photos and video clips for visual reference.
Tools Required
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Flathead screwdriver
- Utility knife or snips (for cutting zip ties)
- Towels
- Vacuum with bristle brush head
Job Checklists
1.43 Chiller Replacement Prep
Power Down The Plunge- Pause the chiller by pressing the pause button on the UI
- ⚠️ Powering down the Plunge while it's in a cooling cycle can damage the chiller.
- Press the test button on the GFCI outlet to power down the Plunge.
- Unplug the GFCI outlet from the outlet.
🚨 Important: Do not power down the Plunge before pausing the chiller. | |
🚨Close Auto-Doser Ball Valves🚨- Close the two auto-doser ball valves (perpendicular to the piping).
- Important note: Not closing the ball valves will cause the auto-doser probe to dry out and need a recalibration.
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Drain The Plunge- Remove the right ventilation screen. Opposite of the filter housing.
- Locate the main drain manifold at the bottom and remove the cap from the spigot.
- Attach a garden hose or inline pump to the spigot
- Turn the valve on the spigot and the water should flow out
- Turn the valve to close the spigot and install the cap back on.
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1.43 Chiller Replacement Work Instructions
Remove Chiller Vents and Thumb Nuts- Remove both chiller vent panels.
- Unscrew all 5 thumb nuts:
- 3 from the left chiller vent
- 2 from the right chiller vent
- Note: Bottom-right nut may be an 8mm hex nut—use socket if necessary.
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Remove Rear Cover- Slowly pull and wiggle the rear cover out through the vent openings.
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Remove Chiller Mounting Nuts- Using a 10mm socket remove the 4 nuts securing the chiller to the base frame:
- 2 on each side of the chiller base.
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Cut Electrical Zip Ties- Cut zip ties securing:
- LED wire
- Power cord (if tied to the frame)
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Disconnect Plumbing Manifolds- Remove the 4 manifolds connecting chiller to tub:
- Main Drain – under e-box, connects to lower plumbing
- TH-1 – right of water filter housing
- Flow Meter – connects from rear of water filter to bottom of heat exchanger
- Heat Exchanger to Jet – top of heat exchanger to lower plumbing union
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Remove Chiller- Warning: Move slowly. Use 2 people if needed.
- Grab handles on both sides of the chiller base.
- Carefully lift and walk the unit forward.
- Angle the top of the chiller back to clear the e-box from the tub wall.
NOTE: Only pull chiller out far enough to vacuum the entire back of the condenser fan. | |
Vacuum Back of Condenser Fan- Vacuum the back of the condenser fan using a bristle brush head.
- Make sure all lint, dust, and dirt is clear from the back of the condenser fan to ensure proper air flow.
NOTE: Not clearing all lint, dust, and dirt | |
Install New Chiller - Warning: Take your time—use two people if necessary.
- Tilt the top of the chiller back and slide the base into the cabinet.
- Lift and shift the unit until bolt holes align with frame.
- Slide bolts through chiller base.
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Connect Plumbing to Tub- Reconnect the 4 manifolds from the new chiller to the tub:
- Main Drain → under e-box to tub plumbing
- TH-1 → right side of filter housing
- Flow Meter → rear of filter housing
- Heat Exchanger to Jet → bottom plumbing union
- Note: Confirm o-rings are present on the 2 unions connecting to lower plumbing.
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🚨Open the Auto-Doser Ball Valves🚨- Open the two auto-doser ball valves (perpendicular to the piping).
Important note: Not opening the ball valves before powering on the Plunge can damage and break the chiller. | |
Prepare for Rear Cover Installation- Reattach e-box cover (4 screws).
- Secure chiller to frame using the 4 base nuts.
- Pre-install the upper thumb nut (near filter housing) loosely—this area is tight with cover on.
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Install Rear Cover- Carefully slide rear cover over chiller.
- Ensure power cord is routed through the correct side.
- Reinstall all 5 thumb nuts to secure rear panel.
- Attach the left and right chiller vents.
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